LOFOTEN, SUMMER 2027

Lofoten is a chain of islands far above the Arctic Circle, where granite peaks rise straight out of the sea and white sand beaches sit between them. The water is a turquoise you would expect in the tropics. In late August the days are still long, the sea is at its warmest of the year, and once Norwegian schools go back the summer crowds thin out, leaving the beaches at Unstad and Flakstad quiet.

This is our most adventurous trip, and the first to combine surfing and hiking in equal measure. It is further north than anywhere we have been, the water is cool, and it takes a full day to get there. For almost everyone it will be the first time they have surfed anywhere like it, and that is the point.

The Surf

Lofoten faces the open Norwegian Sea and picks up swell all year. In late August the waves are usually small to medium, as the first autumn swells start to arrive, and the line ups are quiet. The water is so clear you can see the sand beneath your board.

The water is cool rather than cold at this time of year, around 13°C, the warmest it gets. Every guest is fitted with a 5/4mm wetsuit and boots, with a hood and gloves available if you want them. Getting into the wetsuit is the hardest part. Once you are in, the only thing on your mind is the next wave and the mountains around you.

Each day we choose the beach to suit the conditions and the group: Flakstad, a long white sand beach that is ideal for learning; Unstad, the home of arctic surfing, in a steep valley on the north coast; and Skagsanden, beneath Flakstadtind, when it is small. Surf coaching is included. Sessions are recorded, with the option of a theory review afterwards, so you can see what is working and improve faster. Surfing under mountains like these, in water this clear, is unlike anywhere else you will ever surf.

LOCAL PARTNER

Lofoten Surfsenter

Unstad, Lofoten

Lofoten Surfsenter in Unstad, the world's northernmost surf school, will be our base for the week, for lessons and equipment alike. After a session there are hot showers and a changing area on site, with free coffee and water, which makes coming out of the Arctic sea a great deal easier.

The Hiking

Hiking is the other half of this trip. Lofoten has some of the best short hikes in Europe, where two to four hours is enough to reach a ridge with the sea on both sides. With long late summer days there is never any rush to get down.

The highlight is Ryten, a steady climb of around three hours return that ends on a cliff edge high above Kvalvika beach, one of the great views in Norway. By late August the trails are clear of snow. None of the hikes are technical or heavy going. Trainers are all you need, along with a warm layer and a waterproof.

Between hikes we will visit the red fishing cabins at Reine and Hamnøy, the cod drying on wooden racks, and the white beaches of Haukland and Uttakleiv.

The House

Our base is a fully renovated family home in Leknes, the central hub of Lofoten, and an extremely comfortable place to come back to after a day in the water or on the hills. The surf beaches are a short drive in one direction and the best hikes a short drive in the other, and the town's shops, cafes and restaurants are close by.

Inside it is light and spacious, with a large shared living and dining room, a fully equipped kitchen, two modern bathrooms, a laundry room with washer and dryer, and a smart TV with fast wifi. Outside there is free parking at the door and a big wooden deck for long summer evenings.

The Weather

Late August is the end of the Lofoten summer. Daytime temperatures are usually between 12 and 16°C, and on a still, sunny day it can feel much warmer. The Gulf Stream keeps the islands far milder than anywhere else this far north. The weather changes quickly, though: a clear morning can turn to showers by the afternoon, so we plan each day around the forecast.

The sea is at its warmest of the year, similar to Cornwall in early summer. The nights start to darken again towards the end of the week, and on a clear night there is a chance of seeing the first northern lights of the season.

The Food

Food works a little differently on this trip. Lofoten is remote, and there is no catering of the kind we have on our other retreats, so we want to be upfront about how meals work.

Breakfast and lunch are provided every day. For dinners, about half the nights we will go out to eat, and on the other nights we will cook together at the house. Wherever we can, we will eat local: fresh cod and skrei, arctic char, Lofoten lamb, and cinnamon buns from the bakeries. Cooking together after a day in the water or on the hills is a big part of the week.

Rooms & Sleeping Arrangements

The house has five bedrooms, with three double beds (each with separate bedding) and five single beds, sleeping a group of up to eight guests. Rooms are allocated by wavestate ahead of arrival. Couples and friends travelling together will be placed in a double wherever possible. Sharing is part of the experience, and most guests find it works well, but if it would be a concern, please let us know before booking and we will do our best to accommodate you.

Getting There

Getting to Lofoten is a plane, a ferry across the open sea and a scenic drive. We fly from London in the morning and reach the house in the evening. It is a full day of travel, but no longer than a trip to Sri Lanka or Costa Rica, with no jet lag, and wavestate organises every leg. The retreat runs for eight nights to allow for the travel, which still leaves seven full days on the islands, so it is a full week away.

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